This exploded parts diagram shows how the clutch actuation works. The lever #14 is attached to the clutch cable and handle bar lever which pushes on part #1 to release and engage the clutch. When I pulled mine apart to see just how bad the needle cage bearing #4 was on mine which I guessed had failed this is what I found below.
There was no bearing at all!! All I found was a silvery crumbly paste and the three small bits of roller bearings to the right. The bearing was completely ground down to dust! That might explain a few things!
The push rod (#1) goes through the center of the splined input shaft to the transmission. An unusual but compact design. The end of mine looked like this, very heavily worn and mushroomed out making it impossible to pull out through the back. Normally you do not need to pull the transmission out to inspect all these pieces and this regular maintenence of inspecting and lubricating the needle cage bearing can be done with everything still on the bike. (I wish I had known that ahead of time and perhaps my bike wouldnt have broken down in the first place) However, as this part on mine is completely mangled the whole transmission would have needed to come out anyway.
Why doesn’t he just pull it out through the front of the transmission you might ask? This is why. On the other end the shaft is fused to the washer and it’s impossible to remove! This is looking bad for what other damage I might find… Time to get out the hack saw or dremel cut off wheel.
I was not expecting these pieces to be so mangled, so I need to pull apart the clutch and check for additional damage and see what other parts I need to order.
First step in pulling apart the clutch is to remove every other bolt. These parts are under tremendous pressure and if the pressure is not released slowly and evenly you could loose an eye or more importantly damage the flywheel. The existing bolts are not long enough to fully release the spring and longer ones need to be put in.
