BMW R90/6 throwout bearing

Lots of new BMW parts!

Getting this very stiff rubber piece on the piston is tough!   I had to resort to using a small jewelers screwdriver for leverage to pry it on there and it still took about 15 or 20 minutes to get it on straight in the underlying groove.   Just keep at it you’ll get it eventually.

Here is what that blasted needle bearing looks like and the reason for all of this mess.   This is a bad design, BMW dropped the ball here.  The outside edge of these rollers will always try to spin at a faster rate than the inside edge causing these things to partially slide and slip along and eventually wearing out and turning to dust as I found out.

Previous versions of this clutch actuator design instead used a roller bearing with round balls, much better way to go in my opinion.  I have been thinking of a way to use the old bearing in my clutch, I think it can be done by just machining down the face of the piston and a bit of the end that contacts the adjustment screw to compensate for the thicker roller bearing.   More info on the differences and changes of the design over the years on this excellent website here.

With all the new parts assembled in my hands I now understand how this mechanism works, from the drawings I couldn’t quite understand what kept the end of the rod from drilling through the pressure plate (like mine did) without needing to be lubricated.   Now I see, when under pressure to open the clutch the whole rod spins freely (from the silvery bearing forward) and the piston remains stationary.

Like I mentioned before the washer on the end of the pushrod was fused to the shaft on one side and the other end mushroomed and flared out which made the removal of the old rod impossible from either direction.   I had to cut it apart to get it out.  Cue picture of sparks flying because it looks cool.

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BMW R90/6 Clutch

Just a quick follow up on putting the clutch back together after checking for damage and getting new parts in.

I am impressed that the OEM parts come in such heavy duty packaging. You don’t see that much anymore.

Siebenrock clutch disks come pre greased with something.  I went ahead and added a touch of Honda Moly 60 paste on top of this just to be safe.

  • If you have gotten the clutch apart as mentioned earlier reinstalling the parts is pretty easy, just reverse the process.   You will need this special clutch alignment tool, I got this one from Jeff Trapp at Northwoods Airheads.  Use the shorter end for pre-1981 bikes and the other end for post ’81 bikes when they changed the clutch design.
  • Simply install the long screws you used in removal to hold the assembly together while using the alignment tool to make sure all of the pieces are lined up properly. If things are out of alignment you won’t be able to get the transmission on later.

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What bearing?

This exploded parts diagram shows how the clutch actuation works. The lever #14 is attached to the clutch cable and handle bar lever which pushes on part #1 to release and engage the clutch.  When I pulled mine apart to see just how bad the needle cage bearing #4 was on mine which I guessed had failed this is what I found below.

There was no bearing at all!!  All I found was a silvery crumbly paste and the three small bits of roller bearings to the right.  The bearing was completely ground down to dust!  That might explain a few things!

The push rod (#1) goes through the center of the splined input shaft to the transmission.  An unusual but compact design.  The end of mine looked like this,  very heavily worn and mushroomed out making it impossible to pull out through the back.   Normally you do not need to pull the transmission out to inspect all these pieces and this regular maintenence of inspecting and lubricating the needle cage bearing can be done with everything still on the bike. (I wish I had known that ahead of time and perhaps my bike wouldnt have broken down in the first place)  However, as this part on mine is completely mangled the whole transmission would have needed to come out anyway.

Why doesn’t he just pull it out through the front of the transmission you might ask?   This is why.  On the other end the shaft is fused to the washer and it’s impossible to remove!  This is looking bad for what other damage I might find…    Time to get out the hack saw or dremel cut off wheel.

I was not expecting these pieces to be so mangled, so I need to pull apart the clutch and check for additional damage and see what other parts I need to order.

First step in pulling apart the clutch is to remove every other bolt. These parts are under tremendous pressure and if the pressure is not released slowly and evenly you could loose an eye or more importantly damage the flywheel.  The existing bolts are not long enough to fully release the spring and longer ones need to be put in.

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BMW R90/6 Update

For most of the last year my 1976 BMW R90/6 has been neglected.  Sadly the R90 has sat inoperable before starting the teardown this weekend.  A year ago the V Star’s pickup coil and clutch decided to go out and a week after that the BMW’s clutch cratered also.  During a ride home the lever got very stiff and on the last hard pull it made a loud expensive sounding CLANK and the lever went slack, riding in rush hr traffic on a 34 year old bike with sucky antiquated brakes at best and no clutch is not a fun experience.   I decided to fix the cheapest one with readily available parts first then its been one thing after another and before you know it wow has it been a year already?

I had been able to temporarily fix the clutch by readjusting the cables and the push rod bolts at the back of the transmission but that resulted in lots of squeaking and the clutch then being stuck open.  I’ve guessed after reading numerious threads on ADVrider.com that the needle pushrod/throw out bearing is toast and mine sounded bad enough that I’d want to check the clutch too for damage and piece of mind.

Main thing preventing repair has been the center stand that was broken when I bought it.  I didnt have the equipment to fix it and didn’t trust any of the dealers who couldnt even find the air cleaner in the computer to lay a hand on it.  A few months ago a buddy and former BMW airhead mechanic opened a independent shop 2 miles from my house and to throw a little business his way I had him drill and retap the frame to finally repair the center stand.  With that finally done teardown can begin!

First thing was getting rid of the battery box to see what I was working with to pull the transmission.  What a royal pain in the ass that was!  In hind sight its better to leave it there and first remove the air box to give a big hole to pull it out through the side of the frame instead of out the top.   Also 4 of the 5 rubber mounts came apart and sadly I cant find any OEM replacements.  I have a link for some rubber mount fasteners somewhere that I’ll put up on my Airhead resources page I’m also working on as I rebuild it.

 

Next, loosening the drive shaft bolts at the back of the transmission.  The 10mm wrench in the tool kit is perfect for this, my own box end wrench was too thick to fit.   Step down on the rear brake to prevent the shaft from turning and getting these out is a snap, Cece did all of them.   You must use a 12 point box end though, these are not hex head bolts.

To remove the swingarm on an airhead you need to remove a thin recessed nut inside a tube. Its placed in such a way that a regular off the shelf socket will not fit.  You’ll need something like this special machined down and faced socket available from Northwoods Airheads.   These are very high quality and nicely made and also much cheaper than the BMW made tool for the same job that I happened to find in the stock tool kit after I started and didnt realize I had.

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Fall Colors

Was an absolutely beautiful day today. I spent the morning putting the bike back together and headed up the mountain to check out the fall colors and de-stress. The weather was perfect! Not too cold, not too hot. The sun was out with outstanding lighting.

I guess many others had the same idea as the roads were packed with cars and a fair number of bikes too. All were enjoying themselves. Got a few thumbs up from a few of the other motorists too, it felt good to be out.

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Airhead Cleanup

Oh No! Another bike tear down. My landlords must just love me.

Task at hand today is just to clean everything off somewhat, check the wiring and cables and inspect for any other unknown issues to get a better idea of what work lies ahead and what I’ve gotten myself into.

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1976 BMW R90/6

Heres the reason for ditching the V Star at my parents house on the way back home last weekend. I needed something to tow a trailer so I could pick up a new bike!

Here she is a 1976 BMW R90/6. I found the owner on ADVrider.com from a thread where I only half jokingly said I was looking for an airhead to work on and he said he had one. He was in Kansas and I’m in New Mexico, so a month later and we met up in Walsenburg, CO to do the deal. I would have liked to have found an R90S model with the dual disks better carbs and lots of stock performance mods. But for me intending on eventually converting this to a cafe style bike down the road I think its better to start from a plain R90 so the BMW purists dont scream as yet another collectible S model disappears.

The bike came as you see it, in what appears to be good condition with mostly some cosmetic flaws and mostly sound mechanicals. There are a few issues here and there, and more that I’ll find as I go through a rebuild like any bike of this age is sure to have. It came with both fairings, the hard bags, passenger back rest and a big box of parts. I think I got a good deal.

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